Atlantic soul, fado music, and the best pastries in Europe
Fairy-tale palaces and Moorish castles draped in Atlantic mist above Lisbon
Watch or surf the world's biggest waves - 30-metre monsters in winter
Intimate fado performance in a Lisbon cave restaurant with local wine
Flaky custard tarts dusted with cinnamon - breakfast, snack, dessert, always
Salt cod prepared 365 different ways - croquettes, gratin, or with cream
Porto's legendary sandwich: meat, ham, sausage, molten cheese, beer sauce
Reliable rail between Lisbon, Porto, Coimbra, Faro
Intercity coach network covering everywhere trains don't reach
Fun but pricey way to tackle Lisbon's steep Alfama hills
Essential for rural Portugal - roads are empty and beautiful
Saudade - embrace the Portuguese concept of bittersweet longing; it's in the food, music, and soul
Dinner before 8pm marks you as a tourist - locals eat at 9pm onwards
Tipping is uncommon but rounding up is appreciated
Never confuse Portuguese with Spanish - they're proud of the distinction
Lisbon's public transport is excellent - buy a Viva Viagem card immediately
The Algarve in August is extremely crowded - go in May or September instead
Comporta - the anti-Algarve: rice paddies, flamingos, empty white-sand beaches, no high-rises
Peneda-Gerês National Park - Portugal's only national park, waterfalls and wolves in the north
Monsaraz - medieval walled village overlooking the Alqueva reservoir, barely touched by tourism
Cost of living, visas, healthcare, taxes, expat life and everything you'd need to actually move and stay long-term.