Angkor Wat, jungle temples, and a nation rising from its history
Watch the world's largest religious monument reflected in the moat as the sun rises over the jungle
Strangler fig trees devouring stone galleries - the jungle reclaiming a 12th-century city
Visit a community living entirely on Cambodia's great lake - schools, markets, and churches on water
Cambodia's national dish - freshwater fish in a creamy coconut and kroeung paste, steamed in banana leaves
Lime-marinated beef on a bed of lettuce and rice with a raw egg yolk dip - simple and perfect
Cold rice noodles with light fish gravy and fresh herbs - the Cambodian breakfast eaten on the street
The primary Cambodian tourist transport - negotiate a day rate ($10–15) for full-day Angkor visits
Cambodia's best intercity coach - Phnom Penh to Siem Reap in 5 hours
Cheapest way around towns - flag one down and agree the price
Tonlé Sap lake crossing - scenic but only in high water season (Aug–Jan)
The Khmer Rouge ended only 40 years ago - approach the topic with extreme sensitivity
Never touch a monk or hand things directly to one (women especially)
Always remove shoes at temples and some restaurants
Smile constantly - Cambodians use smiles to express a vast range of emotions
The US dollar is accepted everywhere alongside the Cambodian Riel
Tipping is not traditional but is genuinely transformative for workers in a poor economy - $1 makes a difference
Koh Ker - remote jungle temple complex 2 hours from Angkor with a 36m pyramid and almost no visitors
Battambang - charming colonial riverside town with the world's only bamboo train and cave bat exoduses at dusk
Preah Vihear - cliff-top 11th-century temple on the Thai border with panoramic plains views and very few tourists
Cost of living, visas, healthcare, taxes, expat life and everything you'd need to actually move and stay long-term.